Sunday, October 23, 2016

6.30am Hookipa is head to head and a half, sloppy and choppy.
Looks like a 2.

10 23 16 morning call

Yesterday I had two surf sessions. Both fun, with one amazing wave well into the excellent range.

Good news from the shark attack victim: after a long surgery, he should be all good with all the body parts still attached and functioning.

As usual, in the afternoon the windsurfers hit Hookipa (which, as planned, re-opened at noon) and one of my favorite windsurfers in the world is in town: here's Kauli Seadi in a photo from this gallery by Jimmie Hepp.
You think it's crowded now? Wait until the PWA guys show up after they finish the contest they're having at the moment in La Torche...

4am significant buoy readings
1.2ft @ 14s from 230° (SW)

1.2ft @ 14s from 187° (S)
0.4ft @ 20s from 180° (S)

Very small energy at the local south facing buoys. Check the webcam in Lahaina for details on the size. Yesterday was pretty much flat.

6.5ft @ 8s from 66° (ENE)
5.4ft @ 12s from 344° (NNW)

6.4ft @ 9s from 43° (NE)
3.6ft @ 13s from 347° (NNW)
Pretty strong windswell will overlap on top of some energy from NNW to give us another day of rough ocean conditions. Without even mentioning the actual wind, which also today is supposed to blow pretty strong. BUT, there's waves, so no complains from the blog author. Somewhere will be clean. West side could be the call, the bay had shoulder to head high waves yesterday.
Current wind map shows the beginning of what should be a strong flow out of Kamchatka (we'll keep an eye on it in the next several days), a reduced local windswell fetch and a NNE fetch in the gulf of Alaska. A nice but very compact fetch also down south.
A little mixed up, but many fetches are better than no fetches. That's why Indonesia is such a great place for surfing. Only open to pretty much one direction and only one swell at the time (most of the times).

Long term forecast looking good for the upcoming AWT Aloha Classic. Big waves pretty much right away with two strong pulses of 8f 14s forecasted by Surfline between Nov 2nd and 5th. You can sign up here.

PS. The search for the magic stick continues. I'm selling this excellent board so that I can have another similar one shaped with a few little tweaks.

Saturday, October 22, 2016

7.30am Hookipa is closed.

10 22 16 morning call

Two surf sessions for me yesterday, first one OK, second one very fun.

In the afternoon the windsurfers sailed Hookipa and there was still a healthy size as this photo from this gallery by Jimmie Hepp shows.

Since it's all over the social media, most of you guys will probably know already that there was a shark attack at the point at Hookipa yesterday around 5pm. The victim suffered lacerations at his forearm/hand and leg, the first one being the worse. He happens to be a friend of mine, so I'd like to send him my best wishes for a prompt and full recovery.

As a surf/SUP/windsurf instructor, I often get asked by my students about sharks. Here's my two answers.

Average number of people killed worldwide in car accidents: 1.3 millions.
Average number of people killed worldwide in shark attacks: 4.
You might object that the number of people on the road is much larger than the number of people in the water at any given time and I would agree with that. Unfortunately I don't have those numbers (probably nobody does), but I'm pretty confident that the ratio is not as big as 1.3 millions to 4, though.
In other words, my point is that driving a car is IMO far more dangerous than being in the water.
That usually doesn't work, so right after that I give them my second answer.

Have you seen turtles in the water here in Maui? (they usually have)
Did they look worried? Of course not. They looked as peaceful and graceful as it gets!
Well, turtles are shark food and they live in the water the entirety of their existence (other than the occasional rest on the beach). We humans are not shark food, we don't taste/smell like fish and we only spend a couple of hours at the time in the water. Why should we worry?

"Yes, but this one was right at Hookipa, I surf there everyday!" a coworker said yesterday after learning about the accident and being overly shocked by it.
"Well, do you drive on the Hana Highway to go to Hookipa?", I asked her. That's the most dangerous piece of highway on the north shore, IMO. I've witnessed more fatal car accidents that I wanted to right there. The obvious reason is that the view is freaking stunning and every driver wants to get a piece of it.

So, instead of telling you how to be safer in the water, I'll tell you my driving technique while driving over the hill of Hookipa. Since I want to check the waves too, I first make sure that there's no other cars coming in the opposite direction and then eventually take a quick peek. If that doesn't happen the whole way, I do not look at the waves and I wait until I pull in the lookout to check them out.
The reason is that if someone in the other lane is looking at the waves and drives out of his/her lane, I can still try to avoid the collision... if I see it coming! So far so good, I didn't need to do that yet and hopefully I never will. But I encourage every reader to do the same.

5am significant buoy readings
1ft @ 13s from 229° (SW)
1.8ft @ 11s from 196° (SSW)
The tiny numbers at the south facing local buoys are confirmed by the tiny size observed on the Lahaina webcam.

9ft @ 9s from 80° (E)
1.5ft @ 14s from 45° (NE)

7.3ft @ 9s from 22° (NNE)
3.7ft @ 11s from 332° (NNW)
2.7ft @ 4s from 54° (ENE)
1.6ft @ 15s from 56° (ENE)
7.6ft @ 9s from 56° (ENE)

Those small longer period readings from a NE direction at the NW and N buoys come from a fetch in the gulf of Alaska that was aiming at the Canadian/Oregon coast. That's the angular spreading of the swell it generated and I retrieved the wind map of October 19th to graphically illustrate that. We got to cock roaches with their long antennas on it!

But that brief discussion above was more academical than anything else, since the angular spreading energy is very small in this particular case and it will get overshadowed by the strong windswell.
7.6ft @ 9s from 56° (ENE) is all the Pauwela buoy reads, the ocean is going to be quite rough today.
The access to the north shore from Maliko to Tavares is going to be probably closed till noon (standard DLNR procedure), so I'm going to surf elsewhere. Probably a spot knows to be quite sharky, actually.
You get in your car and drive even after a friend of yours have been involved in a car accident, don't you...

Current wind map shows a remote WNW fetch (related swell forecast by surfline for Tuesday/Wednesday) and the windswell one.

MC2km maps still not reachable, it's gonna be real windy, which most times means also very squally.

Friday, October 21, 2016

6.30am Hookipa is head to head and a half in the sets, all broken up by wind and windswell. 2.7

10 21 16 morning call

Yesterday's sessions report: a surf and a sail at Hookipa before work, after which I shot photos for literally 10 minutes and this is the best one I got: a nice hit to the lip of a head higher by Canadian sailor Glen Haslbeck.

The swell was coming up nicely with occasional overhead sets that were quite far apart though. I had a brief look at Hookipa in the semi-dark at sunset and wasn't impressed.

3am significant buoy readings
1.2ft @ 14s from 262° (W)
1.1ft @ 4s from 189° (S)
0.9ft @ 9s from 187° (S)
0.5ft @ 7s from 190° (S)

3.8ft @ 8s from 145° (SE)
2.3ft @ 13s from 303° (WNW)

All kind of wraps at the south facing local buoys, but no proper long period southerly energy.

7.8ft @ 8s from 21° (NNE)

5.4ft @ 13s from 335° (NNW)

4.7ft @ 13s from 332° (NNW)

4ft @ 13s from 324° (NW)

NW buoy getting slammed by the windswell generated by the strong high pressure reigning north of us.
NW energy still at the N, Waimea and Pauwela buoy, it should stay around the 4f mark in Maui with the period eventually coming down a second or two by sunset.
Current wind map shows a pretty strong but far away WNW fetch and the windswell one. Nothing down south.

If you perceive a lack of enthusiasm in this call, blame the Windguru table below. It reflects what I saw on the Windity run I also did: wind, wind, wind and more wind. Mauisurfreport: a surf report with a mood.
Oh well, good thing there's a windsurfing contest coming up at least!