Tuesday, January 16, 2018

Tuesday 1 16 18 morning call

A SUP foiling and a windfoiling sessions for me yesterday in a day that saw the return of the wind after a few days of beautiful glassy conditions. This is kiter Olivia Jenkins at Hookipa, photo by Jimmie Hepp from this gallery.


The HSA does a great job at organizing and running their local contests in Maui, but it's hard to find the results online afterwards. What I found out is that the open men category was won by Ian Gentil (second Isaac Stant). This are the groms of the U12 group (most likely held yesterday) won by Cash Berzolla (photo by Kristin Coccaro).


2am significant buoy readings
South shore

No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 1f 12s.

North shore
NW101
7.8ft @ 14s from 330° (NW)

Waimea
6.2ft @ 14s from 324° (NW)

Pauwela
6.8ft @ 14s from 331° (NNW)
4ft @ 12s from 334° (NNW)
3.4ft @ 10s from 342° (NNW)
1.1ft @ 4s from 75° (ENE)

NW swell trending down according to forecast, as the graphs of the three reported buoys shows below. Still plenty energy in the water, but not particularly clean conditions because of the mix of periods and the wind.


Wind map at noon shows light trades.

North Pacific shows a good and relatively close NW fetch. Related swell predicted by Surfline to peak tomorrow night at 10f 14s.


South Pacific shows a couple of out of season fetches. 2.4f 14s predicted by Surfline in a week.


Morning sky keeps looking clear, but the strengthening trades might bring squalls to the north shore.

Monday, January 15, 2018

7am the harbor has small waves

Monday 1 15 18 morning call

A shortboard and a longboard sessions for me yesterday and lots of action going on all over the island. Let's start from the mother of all waves. This is Kai Lenny on a magic tow wave at Jaws. Photo by FishBowlDiaries.



Let's continue with Jaws with  a wipeout shot that makes me think how bad of a beating these guys can take. Photo from Jimmie Hepp from this gallery.


Talking about beatings, "near death experience" might be slightly exaggerated, but for sure this was a scared to death experience (it gets worse as it goes).
Two days ago a guy at Hi-Tech inquired about renting a softop for a friend who wanted to ride Jaws on it. I told him we wouldn't rent him the board for such a thing and recommended him to get a wave storm at Costco instead. This must be his friend and I believe I did the right thing.


In between sessions and before work, I found the time to go to Honolua and take some shots of the Legends of the Bay contest. I only stuck around for an hour (the sun was ferocious) and these photos are from round two.

Coming out of the barrel with style.

Beautiful bottom turn from this surfer (looks like Granger, but I'm not sure) on a wave that stayed very open.

Here's the next bottom turn on the same wave.

Matty Schweitzer on a sizey one. I had a quick chat with his brother Zane who updated me on Dusty Paine's conditions. They had to put him to sleep for a couple of days to let the "inflammation of the brain" subside. Now he's awake, walking and talking. He's gonna have surgery as he fractured his skull in the back and in the front. A very serious accident, but with a good prospective of full recovery. Best wishes to him.

Here's the best wave I saw. Imai DeVault took off way behind the peak on the this one. He was in third with a few minutes left in the heat, so he had to go. To me it seemed impossible from the very start.

He set his rail immediately and perfectly and got under the peak with speed.

So I kept shooting the sequence, but 12 shots later I gave up thinking he was down.

Instead not only he came out, but he also threw a beautiful round house cut back (which the camera failed to focus, I started the return process) and flew like an eagle into the final closeout barrel. An obvious 10.

In the next heat, it was Tanner Hendrickson's turn to get a big barrel.

Here's the exit.

Both Imai's and Tanner's waves were correctly judged as 10's. But Imai's wave was way more difficult. Which made me think about an idea for a minor change in the WSL judging rules, the introduction of the "conditional unlimited point ride". The normal scale would still be set to 0 to 10, and 99.9% of the times, that would be all that is necessary. But the judges would be allowed to possibly use a higher score if someone has already scored a 10, and in the same heat someone rides an even better wave. The whole scale would reset to normal in the next heat.

In this way, if they were in the same heat and Tanner scored his 10 first, Imai's score could go up higher to maintain the overall fairness. 11.7 in this case, if you ask me.

5am significant buoy readings
South shore

No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 1.3f 14s. While the Lahaina area had waist to occasional shoulder high sets of the wrap of big NW swell coming down the coast all the way from Honolua, I believe that 14s energy is what was in the water at Thousand Peaks where I stopped by to catch three knee high waves on the way to work. On one of them, I was hanging five and glided right over a turtle. Considering how rare my successful nose rides are, that might easily never happen again. It was pretty magic.

North shore
NW101
9.5ft @ 14s from 314° (NW)

Waimea
8.8ft @ 15s from 312° (NW)

Pauwela
7.3ft @ 17s from 325° (NW)
6.5ft @ 13s from 326° (NW)
2.8ft @ 9s from 351° (N)
2.1ft @ 11s from 336° (NNW)

The giant swell is trending down, as the graph of the three reported buoys shows below. Today the waves are going to be smaller than yesterday, but 7f 17s is still a big couple of numbers. Hookipa still too big (at least for me!), Kahului's breaks will be the call, even though the wind is unfortunately blowing 8mph at 6am.
 

Wind map at noon shows light trades.


North Pacific shows a not too impressive NW fetch.


South Pacific temporarily waking up from lethargy and showing a couple of fetches.


Morning sky and the sunshine continues.

Sunday, January 14, 2018

11am honolua is going off for the contest. Lahaina side had inconsistent waist to occasionally chest high waves

8.45am sorry, I should have said that the harbor has waves, which is true and also quite clean and fun, but it's not really "going off", as I wrote earlier

7am the harbor is going off

Sunday 1 14 18 morning call

A shortboard and a SUP foiling sessions for me yesterday in another wonderful day of waves that saw the rise of the biggest swell of the year so far. Observing (and surfing) the first 22-25s sets roll in the lineup overlapping to the 12-13s energy leftover energy was a great thrill for me, but I'm kind of weird... the other surfers didn't even notice it.

This shot was taken at the harbor around noon, when the boats headed to Jaws were launching. Kai Lenny must spend a lot of time in front of a lens.


This photo by FishBowlDiaries shows that there were some sets at sunset, but the conditions weren't that great because of the chop left by the onshore wind that, as predicted, started blowing mid morning. It should be a lot cleaner and bigger this morning. Looking forward to the facebook session tonight, let's hope we don't receive another missile alarm, so I won't have to skip between hundreds of related posts.


Here's a quick interview with Dave Kalama. The words that come in my mind are: wise, humble, competent and well spoken. His choice of words is excellent in my opinion, I really hope he'll be available to comment more Jaws contests in the future. I'm a big fan.


4am significant buoy readings
South shore

No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 1.1f 14s, but there could also be a bit of NW wrap in the Lahaina area.

North shore
NW101
16.1ft @ 16s from 321° (NW)

Waimea
16.9ft @ 18s from 315° (NW)

Pauwela
17.1ft @ 18s from 329° (NW)

Maybe a couple of feet under the forecast, but the swell is definitely pumping and the numbers at the buoys belong to the "rare" category. The graph of the three reported buoys below shows that the swell hasn't quite peaked yet locally, the start of the day will offer the biggest waves. The harbor will most likely be the only place to surf on the north shore, while the west side should offer more variety in size. Good luck with your search, I might go shoot the Legends of the Bay contest, in which case I'll try to post beach reports from the west side.


The usual model didn't update, this wind map at noon shows onshore winds in the 5-10 knots range (starting 1-2 hours earlier). The morning should be glassy everywhere, even though the Kapalua airport shows a weird 10mph from the N at 6am.


North Pacific shows an elongated NW fetch.


After more than a month of seasonal calm, the South Pacific shows a semi-proper southerly fetch and one forming in the Tasman sea. About 2f 15s predicted by Surfline around next Monday, proper out-of-season stuff.


Morning sky and the sunshine continues.

Saturday, January 13, 2018

Saturday 1 13 18 morning call

SUP foiling and shortboard sessions for me yesterday. A beautiful windless day of waves that saw all kind of action. This is Loch Eggers in a steep drop in his canoe that didn't end up too well. Photo by Darrel Wong.


This is the best shot Alex Aguera took of me while SUP foiling, he better stick to designing foils. Just kidding, I didn't know he had a telelens. I still like it, since it shows the advantage of having a front foot strap while pumping the board in a flat section. Pumping is possible also without it, but you can pull the nose up easier with it.


This is the spot I surfed afterwards.


6am significant buoy readings
South shore

No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 0.6f 10s.

North shore
NW101
15.3ft @ 19s from 326° (NW)
5ft @ 15s from 333° (NNW)

Hanalei
5.4ft @ 14s from 337° (NNW)
4.6ft @ 13s from 329° (NW)
4.5ft @ 10s from 328° (NW)
3.2ft @ 22s from 321° (NW)

Waimea
6.9ft @ 13s from 312° (NW)
2.4ft @ 22s from 317° (NW)

Pauwela
8.3ft @ 14s from 320° (NW)
1ft @ 25s from 339° (NNW)
 
First, I need to apologize about the bad call for Honolua yesterday, which wasn't firing as I predicted. In the collage of the four reported buoys plus the Surfline forecast I put two arrows to indicate the reading at Pauwela in the moment in which I made the call (12f 15s from 326) and the reading at noon (7.5f 15s). 4.5f do make a difference, specially when the direction is a blocked one. That hump in the graph wasn't in any forecast and I just assumed that the swell was going to stay high through the day. Instead it didn't and Hookipa, for example, was massive at dawn and totally surfable at sunset.
 
In the same collage I also circled in red the steep rise of the new giant swell. As you can see, it just barely started in Maui, where the early morning will be mostly about the 8f 14s remaining from yesterday's swell. As the forecast graph indicates, the rise will be felt mostly in the afternoon and the biggest waves should happen at sunset and at dawn tomorrow. Surfline calls for a peak in Maui of 21f 16s at 2am, Pat Caldwell put 20f 20s in his table for Oahu. From what I can see so far, they both seem a bit too high, but the swell is still rising, so we'll have to wait and see.

Wind map at noon shows very light onshores, it's gonna be calm in the morning instead.


North Pacific shows the big fetch of today's swell now oriented mostly towards Baja.


South Pacific shows a small southerly fetch.


Morning sky shows more sunshine, but with the tail of the front associated with the swell approaching Kauai.

Friday, January 12, 2018

Friday 1 12 18 morning call

A SUP foiling and a SUP sessions for me yesterday. Last one was interesting, since it had been a while I didn't ride waves with a SUP without the foil. The first times you foil, you do the mistake of putting too much pressure on the rails. When you learn, the amount of pressure on the rail to achieve the turns is very subtle, as the foil is extremely sensitive to that.

Yesterday instead I was doing the opposite mistake: not enough pressure on the rails. It took me the whole session to get used again to lift the back foot and place it way back and on the rail to achieve the turns. But when I finally did, it was a lot of fun. Doing only one discipline (like most foilers I know) is a mistake, imo. Also because you go from enlarging the pool of toys and conditions you can enjoy with your quiver, to actually shrinking it. Obviously, it's a personal choice, but I'll keep doing everything I know how to do and choose the discipline based on:
- ocean conditions
- mood
- fitness conditions
- personal preference.

Hookipa at sunset had some solid bombs. The light was marginal, but the new camera performed quite badly. I think this is the worse of the three I owned so far and I might have to return it and get another one. It'll depend on today's performance. This is a bomb a Lanes, if you can see it.


A flick of the hair is a proper claim for a pretty good barrel at the point.


4-5am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 0.6 11s.

North shore
NW101
8.5ft @ 15s from 308° (WNW)

Waimea
11.8ft @ 14s from 317° (NW)

Pauwela
11.9ft @ 15s from 326° (NW)
3.4ft @ 8s from 71° (ENE)

12f 15s locally is a massive number, today most of the north shore will be unsurfable already, with the exception of Jaws, of course. Don't expect a Hookipa beach report, there's no need for it: too big. I'll be driving around searching for a surfable spot, other than the Kahului harbor, but I'm not sure there will be any. Obviously, the west side will be the place offering a better variety of sizes. Honolua will be firing too.
Below are the graphs of Pauwela and the Surfline forecast that for today was well under (9f instead of 12f). Tomorrow, mo' bigger, but maybe not quite in the early morning.


Wind map at noon finally shows no wind.


North Pacific shows the strong and close NW fetch responsible for the weekend giant swell.


A fetch like that deserves an old school weather map. The longer, more parallel and closer to each other are the isobar, the bigger the swell. Other factors are width of the fetch and vicinity and this fetch has them all. That's why it will be the biggest swell of the season so far.


South Pacific shows a southerly fetch oriented towards east of us. Hopefully we'll get some angular spreading.


Morning sky. The stretch of spectacular weather continues.