Sunday, November 19, 2017

7am Hookipa looked big and bad. The harbor has clean small waves with no wind at the moment. Remember, the nw wind is predicted to start blowing between 9 and 10am

Sunday 1 19 17 morning call

A longboard session in Lahaina for me yesterday. This is the only photo of the day I have.

This is the amazing sunset in a photo by Jimmie Hepp.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys (probably too much energy from the north), the Surfline forecasts calls for 1.7f 14s from SSW.

North shore
12.4ft @ 15s from 7° (N)

8.6ft @ 14s from 2° (N)

5.6ft @ 9s from 360° (N)
4.4ft @ 13s from 348° (NNW)
3.1ft @ 15s from 355° (N)
The big numbers at the NW001 buoy show the rise of the new N swell predicted to arrive today. Below is the graph of it (left), together with the graph of Waimea (middle, definitely on the way up) and the Surfline forecast for Maui's north shore. The yellow line on this last one is the new N swell and it's predicted to reach 11f 12s at sunset.

Here's how Pat Caldwell described this swell:The combined remote and nearby generated swell should make a less organized breaker pattern Sunday 11/19 under a moderate onshore winds-- adding chop.
In other words: big, but no clean surf today, unless you find a sheltered spot.

This is the wind map at 10am showing the approach of the moderate NW wind. I linked this model in the GP's meteo website list (link n. -4), you have to adjust the "tau" parameter to change the time. Hawaii time is 10h before the Z time indicated on top of the picture.

This is the mat at noon HST (22Z) and it shows the moderate NW that will blow for the rest of the day. Catch it early, because it's gonna be pretty bad later on. Unfortunately already shows 13mph from NW at 6am in Kahului.

North Pacific shows a northerly fetch very close to us.

South Pacific shows a strong fetch oriented towards the Americas of which we should get some angular spreading in a week. 1f 16 on Sunday and 1.5f 15s predicted by Surfline on Sunday and Monday respectively.

Morning sky shows a big band of clouds SE of us. The red arrow indicates the way the air is moving in from the north, so it's gonna get a bit colder.

Saturday, November 18, 2017

6.30pm lahaina side is knee to waist with the occasional bigger sets, but also flat spells. Clean everywhere.

Saturday 11 18 17 morning call

Spectacular day of surfing all over the island yesterday. I had the following four sessions:
1) SUP foiling in the harbor
2) Windfoiling at upper Kanaha .Not enough wind to foil on the way out, but I caught three weird waves and followed the bump foiling all the way to the beach. Another example of conditions that I could have not enjoyed without the foil. As a matter of fact, I was the only one in the water.
3) Noseriding in Lahaina
4) SUP foiling at Ukumehame that was super glassy at sunset and a bit of a 10.

These photos from Tomoko are from the first session. 10 from the Italian judge for grace, elegance and wetsuit.

This is Alan Cadiz who managed to stick this steep drop on the foil. Good to see him out there with his lovely daughter Cloe.

These gopro shots are from session 4. There's a lovely airplane from Alex Aguera's Gofoil airlines under my board. I joined the frequent flyer program.

My friend Nino leaves today. As usual, he made the most of his stay. Till next time.

The most beautiful background in Maui, imo. Pumping my way to charge that incoming section.

Shaper Sean Ordonez is embracing the foil movement too. Of course, why not? Of all people, Sean was always going to get on board and experiment.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore

2.6ft @ 13s from 222° (SW)

That's the only southerly energy reading at the outer buoys, but it means that the Tasman Sea swell is still here. Yesterday on the Lahaina side it was knee to waist high, with inconsistent sets in the chest to shoulder high range. As a friend said:"it was worth to sit on the outside and wait, because when they came, they were beautiful". Today it should be more of the same. Stay tuned for a beach report, I think I'll go there straight.

Below is the maps of Nov 8 and 9 that show how remote the fetch of this swell was. Hence, the slow arrival of the sets.

North shore
5.9ft @ 9s from 45° (NE)

4.3ft @ 11s from 18° (NNE)
4.1ft @ 9s from 37° (NE)

That's what's on tap for today on the north shore, slightly declining before a big northerly swell will hit tomorrow. 10f 14s from 346 predicted by Surfline, while Pat Cladwell wrote 12s 13s from N in his table and explains where it comes from in this way:

The persistent north Pacific jet stream pattern since last week has maintained a block over the central Aleutians and troughs in the Gulf of Alaska. Models show it holding into next week. This is keeping WNW to NNW surf at a seasonal minimum and dominant swell out of the N to NNE.
The next in the series of surface lows digging SSE from the eastern Aleutians 11/15 was about 20 degrees longitude further west than previous systems that gave NNE swell. Thus, more straight N direction is expected.

Maui loves straight N, unfortunately the wind won't be exactly ideal, but there might be some spots that won't be too effected by it and the related chop.

Wind maps are back, here's the noon one showing northerly winds. That will bring some chop on the north shore, get in the water early, as the morning will be calm instead.

North Pacific continues to show northerly fetches.

No fetches of relevance in the South Pacific.

Morning sky.

Friday, November 17, 2017

1.30pm lahaina side is knee to waist with the occasional bigger set. Light onshore flow everywhere, but still kinda clean, specially in town

8.30am Hookipa looked head to overhead and poor shape. Cleaner smaller waves inside the harbor

Fiday 11 16 17 morning call

Double wave windfoiling sessions for me yesterday.

Jason Hall was able to capture the very first long small left at the harbor that I (and most likely anybody) ever windfoiled on. Not sure what you guys will think of it, but it was so much fun that after work I went straight back there and had caught a bunch more. Just like surfing, you can't compare it with regular windsurfing on waves. No hitting lips, no tight bottom turns, it doesn't look as radical at all. That's because it isn't. But it's a lot of fun, because it's a completely different feeling and way to read the wave. Slopy steepness has never been this fun.

The Gofoil Maliko is my favorite foil between the two that I own (the other being the Kai). The new Iwa has the same surface but is more curved, so it's supposed to turn better. I haven't tried one, but if it turns better, I expect it to be less stable. Can't win something in a category and not lose something else in another.
Hopefully I'll get to try one soon, but in the meantime I have no intentions of selling my Maliko and I have a feeling that I never will (perfect foil for teaching). We have some leftover Malikos at the shop at reduced price.

Here's another video that Jason put together to document the session. See how quickly I get it up on the foil as soon as I get hit by the first little gust? No way I could have done that with a "proper" high speed windsurfing foil and/or with a board with the tuttle box in the WRONG position all the way at the back of the board. In my opinion, the windsurfing industry is missing out on an opportunity to boost the sport because of how lazily they grandfathered the tuttle box position and because of the high speed design of the foils. I've tried those setups and they are borderline boring for me, compared to my setup with the slow speed surfing foil and the box more forward. Hopefully they'll figure it out at one point. Or maybe I'm just weird, but I sure am glad to be doing what I'm doing.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore

2.2ft @ 15s from 144° (SE)

1.9ft @ 15s from 199° (SSW)

A new long period southerly energy is recorded by a couple of outer buoys. Pat Caldwell called it perfectly, while Surfline undercalled it at 1 foot only. I'm off today, so expect multiple beach reports, eventually also from the south shore.

North shore
7.1ft @ 10s from 34° (NE)

5.6ft @ 9s from 31° (NE)           
3.5ft @ 6s from 43° (NE)
2.8ft @ 13s from 25° (NNE)

More NE energy on tap for today, mostly in the 9-10s range. Hookipa looked pretty bad at sunset yesterday, even though I'm sure there were diamonds in the rough. I'm gonna look again at sheltered spots.

Wind map not working again, here's the two models at the bottom of the Windguru page showing trades for the day before a no wind day tomorrow.

Strong N fetch in the North Pacific, related swell forecasted to peak at 10f 14s from 347 at 2pm Sunday. Vicinity will give this swell strong consistency with a lot of water moving.

No fetches of relevance in the South Pacific.

Morning sky.

Thursday, November 16, 2017

Thursday 11 16 17 morning call

Massive day of action for me yesterday. I surfed Honolua Bay, wavesailed on the west side and SUP foiled the harbor at sunset.

Honolua was a 5, but a 5 at the bay is worth at least an 8 at Hookipa. This shot is the point before I got out.

This is the cave after I surfed. Conditions and size improved.
4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indications of southerly energy at the outer buoys, the Surfline forecast calls for 1f 14s. Probably flat to knee high at most spots, occasionally bigger in Lahaina.

North shore
8.4ft @ 10s from 25° (NNE)

8.6ft @ 9s from 13° (NNE)

7.9ft @ 8s from 35° (NE)
6.3ft @ 11s from 27° (NNE)
Plenty NNE short/medium energy on tap also for today. Conditions won't be clean because of the moderate wind and the mix of sources, one of which is very close, got to look for sheltered spots that filter out some of the energy.

The wind model I use is not updated this morning, here's the Windguru 10 days table that shows moderate trades from around 62 for today (that's a bit more north than the ideal 75) easing up by the weekend and the start of next week.

The North Pacific is pretty active and shows three fetches:
- a weak WNW one
- a strong NNW one (10f 14s from 347 predicted by Surfline at 2pm on Sunday)
- a close NE windswell one

No fetches of relevance in the South Pacific instead

Morning sky.

Wednesday, November 15, 2017

10.40am honolua has head to occasionally overhead sets with improving conditions. 30 surfers total

7.30am lahaina side is flat to knee high. Town gets the occasional bigger set.